Unit owners are responsible for checks and inspections of appliances and operating features of equipment within their units. Residents who have questions or need assistance, should contact the Building & Grounds committee.
In addition to the inside air handler and furnace, the unit owner is responsible for repair and maintenance of the outside condenser unit and the freon and electric lines connecting these components.
The A/C units originally installed in our condos use a refrigerant called Freon R-22. The EPA has issued rules phasing out the use of R-22. Beginning January, 2010, manufacturers will no longer be allowed to make A/C units that use R-22 and the manufacturer or importation of R-22 will phase out between 2010 and 2020. This does not mean that you will not be able to service your existing A/C.
Based on what happened with automobile A/Cs when Freon R12 was phased out in the early `90s, there will be a lot of hype and misinformation. What happened with cars is that Freon became more expensive with time but is still available today, if you are prepared to pay the price. Hopefully with time, the industry will come up with a variety of solutions for repairing home A/Cs.
Should you have A/C problems and your are told you need to replace the entire system, including the freon lines from the outside unit to the inside unit, GET A SECOND OPINION. Ask whether is possible to repair the problem with equipment manufactured before January, 2010. (Replacing the freon lines is a BIG undertaking and may require cutting into walls in condo units below yours as well as your own.)
There is an additional issue affecting A/C repair that you should be aware of. A/C units are rated in terms of Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratio, or SEER. This rating may be thought of as comparable to the mile per gallon rating for cars. The Department of Energy (DoE) presently mandates a minimum SEER of 13; although equipment with ratings as high as 20 is currently available. Where this affects us is in the event that the DoE raises the mandate for minimum SEER, any replacement A/C would need to meet that new minimum. This could mean that should your outside unit fail, both the inside evaporator as well as the outside unit might have to be replaced at the same time to meet the then higher SEER requirement.
Become familiar with the electric panel in your unit so you can disconect the power, when required, to any appliance; such as the hot water heater, washer/dryer, furnace, or electric stove. If a breaker is "thrown" (no lights to one or more rooms) move the breaker to the left, then to the right to reset; if the breaker trips again, call an electrician.
The outlets in kitchen and bath and on your balcony that have a rectangular cutout in their wall plate are Ground Fault Interrupter outlets. Periodically check their operation. Push Test button to test -- outlet should shut off. Push Reset to reset.
The fireplaces in Building A are electric and in Building B they are gas, with exception of unit B102 which was remodeled with an electric fireplace.
Electric Fireplaces
Electric fireplaces consist of an electric heater combined with fake logs and fake flame. The fake flame is lit by 3 60 watt light bulbs which require occasional replacement.
Anyone needing a copy of the Homeowner's Installation and Operating Manual for their Vermont Castings Electric Fireplace may contact Ed Plummer x1656.
The following company is known to service both gas and electric fireplaces:
Gas Fireplaces
ALERT: As originally installed in Building B, the fireplaces can ignite on their own when the battery in the receiver gets weak. So, unless you know for a fact that your fireplace controller has been updated, replace BOTH batteries annually. Failure to do so may cause the fireplace to come on unexpectedly.
One battery is located in the hand-held remote control. The other is located in the fireplace on the right side below the cover panel in front of the burner and fake logs. It is this battery in the fireplace that can cause the fireplace to light when it runs down.
There is a gas shutoff valve to one side of the fireplace or inside of a cabinet in those units that have built in cabinets and shelves around fireplace. Consider turning of this gas valve when fireplace is not going to be used for a while.
Also below the cover panel in front of the burner are a rotary control valve and buttons to start and ignite the gas pilot.
It is the Unit Owner's responsibility to assure that the gas fire place is operating properly; this may require periodic servicing by a licensed professional. A proper flame will be mostly blue and come from between the logs and from in front of the logs.
The following company is known to service both gas and electric fireplaces:
Replace air filters (monthly or as needed). In Bldg B, replace battery in thermostat if furnace fails to start. Do not store flammable materials in the furnace closet. Have a contractor inspect the furnace/air conditioner periodically (annual inspection recommended).
Gas and water emergency shutoff valves are located in the balcony water-heater closets. FAMILIARIZE YOURSELF WITH THESE SHUTOFF VALVES IN YOUR WATER-HEATER CLOSET. Every unit's closet has shutoff valves for that unit. First floor units have a master water shutoff valve that shutsoff the water to all units in the tier.
Be aware of how to shut them off in an emergency. If water is leaking in your unit or in a unit above yours, acting quickly can avoid major water damage to your unit and to others.
Make it a habit to turn off the main water valve to your unit along with the water-heater circuit breaker when you know you will be away for several days or weeks.
Follow the maintenance instructions on the yellow tag attached to the water heater. At least once a year, lift and release the lever handle on the pressure/temperature valve on top of the water heater. Drain sediment from the tank (valve at bottom) monthly. Have contractor inspect the anode as indicated on the yellow tag.
Do NOT store flammable material in the water-heater closet.
If you need instructions or guidance regarding these procedures, please contact your Condo Board or Building and Grounds Committee to set up a familiarization session.
Only covered, electric grills are permitted. Charcoal and propane grills and cook stoves are prohibited.
Units in building A have an installed Pest Control System that can be serviced from a box on the wall of the water-heater closet. Visit the Home Team web site for description of the system. For service, call the 703-393-1234.
Replace "back-up" batteries annually. Ask a neighbor for help if you are unable to replace the battery yourself. Purchase a ladder yourself (or collectively with some neighbors) to safely manage changing batteries or hard-to-reach light bulbs. Or use smoke-detector-battery-replacement services advertised in the Heritage Horn. Consider the "ultra-life" lithium 9-volt batteries that can last up to 4 times longer than ordinary alkaline batteries and 10 times longer than carbon-zinc batteries, but be aware that some of these special batteries are physically bigger than a standard alkaline battery and may not fit a given smoke detector.
Test smoke detectors monthly by pushing the Test button. Gently vacuum the outside of your smoke detectors monthly to remove dust and cobwebs. Replace detectors when they reach ten years of age.
Note that original smoke detectors are 110 volt models with battery backup.
Further, these wired smoke detectors are interconnected such that when one
goes off in a unit, they all go off. Replacment smoke detectors should be
compatible in design.
Note that smoke detectors often have routines where they chirp periodically
to warn of certain conditions; such as a week battery or other condition.
Detectors have Test and, usually Hush, buttons on them. Depending on what
you push or disturb, you may trigger such a warning chirp. For example,
on one Kidde smoke detector model used in our condos, pushing the Hush button
causes the detector to have reduced sensitivity for 7 minutes during which
period the detector chirps every 45 seconds. (The solution here is when
testing, just push the Test button and let the detector shut off by itself.)
Detectors often have detailed instructions on their backside and often come
loose from the ceiling by twisting counter-clockwise.
Have a contractor inspect washer hoses and dryer vent pipe every year or so. Water hoses can fail and lint build-up in vent pipe can be a fire hazard and/or reduce performance of your dryer. Washer/dryer assembly must be carefully lifted out of closet for access to hoses and certain repairs. The plastic catch pan under the washer is there to catch water in the event of leakage and must be intact and unbroken to do its job.
When buying a replacement washer/dryer, be aware that a physically larger washer/dryer may require a larger catch pan (at additional expense). The catch pan is connected to a floor drain and does not just slide out.
See Hot Water Heaters for important informaton that can help you avoid major problems
When buying and replacing a water heater, be aware that the water heater rests on a drain pan that is intended to catch any water leaks and this pan needs to be kept in mind when selecting and installing a water heater. The pan is connected to a floor drain, so the heater must be lifted in/out of the pan; the pan will not just slide out of the water heater closet. If the new water heater is physically bigger in diameter than the existing water heater, the pan may need to be replaced (at additional expense) with a larger one. The water heater should be installed such that the drain is not blocked; this may require spacers (such as a brick or piece of tile) under the feet of the hot water heater.
Check that your windows are completely closed and latched. If you feel drafts, hear wind howling, or have an excessively cold room on cold days, check your windows as follows: Inspect the latch mechanism to verify that the latch on the lower sash engages the cutout in the tab on the upper sash when you turn the latch lever to the latched position. Try to open the lower sash without unlatching the window; if it opens, the latches are not properly engaged.
To properly latch a window, open the latches, push the upper sash all the way up (you can use a broom handle to push up on the lip at the top of the upper window), close the lower sash, and close the latches, being carefull that the upper sash does not slide back down as you in the process.
It seems simple but five of six stairwell windows in Building A and windows in at least 2 units were found not to be latched.
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